Lakyn Carlton wasn't going to go viral, but it took only 1 tweet. 6/7 The personal stylist posted 2 photos of a satin slip skirt she stumbled upon when shopping for a client. The turquoise bias cut midi by British brand Ghost London skimming the model's body and fluttering outward at the hem, and the Vancouver-based Blanc

Given the difference in their design, she decided to turn midis into a moment of education about bias cuts . Carlton's caption reads: "The difference between a skirt that is cut with bias and a skirt that is not. If you know what you're looking for, it's hard to unsee."This method was pioneered by the French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet in the 1920s and involves cutting at an angle of 45 degrees from the grain woven fabric (mainly silk), rather than the traditional method of cutting parallel to the grain.

The tweet highlighted the visual nuance of the technique: the material cut on the bias skips the body and drapes like a liquid and flares out at the hem. For those with discerning eyes and knowledge of tailoring, the distinction is obvious: the former skirt is cut with bias, and the latter is not cut.

"I found it so funny — mainly because the skirt costs about the same price (Ghost London's is £69 or 8 87USD; the brunette's label's is 1 109) — but it was clearly different in [craftsmanship]," Carlton says in an email. "I didn't really expect [the Tweet] to explode," he said.But it did: her post now boasts more than 400 million views.

Fashion Twitter, a niche but very passionate Internet corner, had an instant opinion about 2 skirts shared by Carlton. They fell into two opposite camps;some commenters praised traditional tailoring methods and were team-biased cut, while others found it to be "dated", "conservative," and "matronly.""This conversation could go far beyond bias cuts and become a critique of the fashion debate about trends.

The fast fashion topic then entered the chat: In a quote tweet that received more than 48,000 likes, Cora Harrington, author and former editor-in-chief of the blog The Lingerie Addict, chimed in. "It's interesting to say that people prefer the right [straight] cut because the left [bias cut] looks too old [i.e. mature]. She says that "new" has become synonymous with dressing of youthful trends. "It has become a culturally interesting touchpoint, especially with the rise of fast fashion," she notes.

At the same time, the same conversation began to launch on fashion TikTok. In response to Carlton's tweet, recent fashion business graduate Maya Torseke, in a video that has received more than a million views and counts, said, "It is interesting that there is a certain [production technology] that is 100% [as aesthetic] about lowering manufacturing costs that are dripping in the trend cycle." [All]. In essence, people see something as more valuable because that's what they've been exposed to — pat the bottom line behind closed doors

For some, affordability and convenience are a higher priority than craftsmanship. According to recent reports, cost-cutting measures in the production of fast fashion have reduced the quality of modern clothing. Consumers have become accustomed to polyester slip dresses that they receive the next day — take weeks to create, but against bespoke gowns that last a lifetime.

The extinction of designers prioritising craftsmanship is a topical theme throughout the social media and sub・stacks of fashion sets, and thoughtful to design,

The infamous John Galliano is a name that often appears on the subject. Fashion historian and auctioneer Kelly Taylor describes his "clinging, sensuous bias-cut dress" as a signature of his eponymous 80s fashion house, cementing him as a symbol of high-level craft. His artistry, like that shown off at Galliano's Maison Margiela's Spring 2024 show of craftsmanship, resonates deeply with the people of fashion. Beside the play was his technical precision and attention to detail — up to the biased-cut silk organza. It was a production that felt like from a bygone era of fashion, when there was appreciation for bias cuts and other tailoring techniques - which label was not a competition that could churn the fastest viral hemlines at the lowest price point.

Nostalgia and yearning for a slow fashion cycle contributed to Carlton's tweet becoming a capital "V" viral. The sentimental shopper said, "My mother used to live in bias-cut skirts in the 90s, but now it's almost impossible to find a (good) skirt.

However, Marcelo Gaia, designer and founder of bespoke fashion brand Mirror Palais, pays attention when judging bias cuts strictly for good or bad. "I don't agree with the overall feeling that 1 cut of clothing is better than the other if it's universally said," he says in an email. "There can be poor execution of beautiful masterpieces of clothing and ends, both bias-cut and straight-cut."As Carlton first pointed out, many non-atelier brands, like ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo, Reformation, Cinq à Sept and Ghost London (skirts that started the heated debate), still use the technology and sell it at reasonable prices, so it's not on the verge of extinction.

Gaia also points to the misconception that biased-cut pieces are an excellent option. "From a sustainability perspective, bias-cut garments can require a significant amount of waste and can use 2 times more yards than cutting straight grains," he said.But again, the designers emphasize that it is not a black-and-white situation tied to clear good and evil. "My motto is to create and consume only what brings true joy. Loved and cared for clothing is less likely to end up in landfill."Even if it is a piece - gasps.- It is not cut to bias.

Ultimately, the best thing you can do as a consumer is to let yourself know about what you buy and wear. "Education always requires neutrality and well-researched information and ultimately makes its own decisions about what it deems appropriate for their tastes and lifestyles

This brings us back to Carlton's tweet, which is intended to be a short but informative deep dive into the fabric cut to bias. Even though the conversation swirls into a much more complex realm, the personal stylist sees her tweets and the discourse it has stimulated as positive. She says that her followers, fashion Twitter, and people like -Tok (i.e., the entire Internet) are learning about vintage technology. Something that delves deeper into sustainability and supply chain impacts. "Learning how to talk about clothes is very important, especially in such a saturated fashion environment," says Carlton. "There's so much noise to cut through your way to your personal style."No matter what you see on social media, it's not really a biased cut or bust.